The Capital City Everyone Warned Me About — And Why I Fell in Love with It Anyway

“Don’t go to Lagos.”

I heard that phrase more than once before my trip. Friends warned me. Forums warned me. Even a taxi driver in Accra raised his eyebrows when I mentioned I was heading to Nigeria’s biggest city.

Too crowded. Too chaotic. Too risky.

But something in me was curious. I didn’t want to avoid Lagos — I wanted to understand it.

And I’m so glad I went.

Here’s what really happened — and why Lagos, with all its madness, energy, and beauty, won me over completely.



I arrived at Murtala Muhammed International Airport in the middle of the night. The heat hit me like a wave. Immigration was slow, but not unfriendly. I had arranged a hotel pickup in advance — good call, because the arrival zone was bustling even at 2 a.m.

The drive into town was a sensory punch. Street vendors still out, selling cold drinks and fried plantains. Music blasting from parked cars. Billboards advertising everything from fintech startups to gospel concerts.

It was loud. Messy. Alive.

And I loved it immediately.



The Lagos Everyone Warned Me About

Yes — Lagos is crowded. It’s home to more than 20 million people. The traffic is legendary (and not in a good way). Horns honk for no reason. The electricity goes out. People hustle. It can be overwhelming.

But beneath the noise is something else: rhythm.

Lagos has a beat. Once you catch it, it carries you.



Mainland vs. Island

Most first-time visitors stay on Lagos Island — particularly Victoria Island or Lekki. It’s more modern, with high-rise apartments, fancy restaurants, and cafes that wouldn’t feel out of place in Brooklyn.

But I spent time on the mainland too — in places like Ikeja and Yaba — and that’s where Lagos really opened up to me.

I wandered markets where women balanced buckets on their heads like it was nothing. I drank cold malt drinks from glass bottles. I talked to artists in shared studios who were painting everything from political murals to portraits of Afrobeat legends.


What Surprised Me Most

1. The Style: Lagosians don’t just dress. They show up. Bold colors, crisp tailoring, beautiful fabrics. Even on casual days, there’s intention in how people look.

2. The Art Scene: From the Nike Art Gallery to street murals in Lekki, the creative pulse is strong here.

3. The Food: Jollof rice, suya, puff puff, egusi soup — every meal was flavorful and filling. I ate in roadside joints and fancier spots. The flavors hit every time.

4. The Music: It’s everywhere. From Afrobeats in Ubers to gospel choirs spilling out of churches on Sunday morning. You don’t just hear music in Lagos. You feel it.



But Is It Safe?

This is the big question, right?

Lagos isn’t “safe” in the Western travel brochure sense. It’s not a place where you should wander aimlessly at night or flash your phone in a busy market. But I never felt threatened. I stayed aware. I listened to locals. I moved with intention.

And people looked out for me.

More than once, strangers gave me directions, offered help, or just smiled and said “welcome” with genuine warmth.



My Favorite Moments

- Drinking palm wine at a beach shack on Tarkwa Bay as waves crashed meters away
- Watching a group of teenagers breakdance on a basketball court in Surulere
- Talking politics with a taxi driver named Tunde who swore he should run for president
- Hearing three different churches holding worship at once on Sunday morning — it was chaotic harmony


What I Wish I Knew Before I Went

- Traffic is real. Plan everything around it.
- Cash is still king. Not every place takes cards.
- Uber and Bolt are lifesavers.
- Weather shifts fast — rain hits hard, then disappears.
- Don’t expect everything to “work” — but be ready to adapt.



The Truth About Lagos

Lagos doesn’t try to impress you. It doesn’t tidy itself up for visitors. It doesn’t apologize for being loud, fast, or unpredictable.

But it’s also generous. Electric. Hilarious. Infuriating. Deeply human.

If you’re the kind of traveler who needs everything polished and perfect, Lagos might not be your place.

But if you’re willing to be surprised, challenged, and occasionally overwhelmed — you might just fall in love with it like I did.

Because Lagos doesn’t make it easy. And that’s what makes it worth it.

I left with my clothes a little sweatier, my schedule totally off, and my heart fuller than I expected.

And I’d go back in a second.